While in the industry they use electronic cutting machine, which allows to obtain the maximum of products from a single skin, we still cut our shoes by hand, using only the best parts of the skin to obtain the upper.
All the parts of the skin that are not suitable for good uppers can be used for Trial shoes, or to cut pieces to modify lasts, as well for internal padding between a layer and another, etc.
Lasting is also done manually, as was the case before the industrialization process. What a machine does in 10 seconds we do it in about a day.
Pincers, mastic, starch glue and a lot of nails. One layer at time we mount on the lining, the puff and finally the upper.
For the reinforcing puff you can choose between 3 different types:
- Chamois, perfect for very soft loafers.
- Canvas, stronger than the chamois one, is the most used from the industrial brands.
- Leather, the typical artisanal shoe puff, can only be lasted by hand and requires several hours of wetting and drying phases to be worked well. It makes the shoe much more stronger but could be avoided by some kind of problematic feet.
The most important thing to choose when you want to buy a shoe is the type of construction. Whether it is an office Derby, an evening Oxford a summer Loafer or a mountain Boot, combining the right construction with the right leather and an appropriate sole you can get any type of shoe.
The different processes we offer are
- Handwelted, Goodyear by hand
- More are coming..
All of these constructions can be further customized with different kind of soles, made of a different number of layers, and with different welts.
Blake-Rapid for example could mean more than 10 different versions!